This Nebbiolo-based red makes for a great alternative to Barolo. The hot-vintage 2011 Roero Riserva Giovanni Almondo has great intensity and a nice fullness to it. The grapes were fermented in stainless steel and later aged in barrique for two years. Only 2,000 bottles were produced.

The 2009 Roero Riserva Giovanni Almondo bursts onto the palate with a heady melange of black cherries, French oak, licorice, smoke and incense, all of which come to life in a sumptuous style that is immensely appealing. This is very much a big, powerful style of Roero, but it works beautifully. At the same time, I can only wonder how much more expressive the 2009 could have been with a little less overt oak influence. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Year after year, Almondo is one of the very finest producers in Roero, a part of Piedmont where consistency is hard to come by. This is a fabulous set of wines from top to bottom. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644

The 2008 Roero Riserva Giovanni Almondo is drop dead-gorgeous. I am not sure where to start or end with this striking, breathtaking red. A gorgeous, well-articulated bouquet melds into expressive dark fruit as the wine opens up in the glass. Smoke, tar, licorice and a host of other brooding aromas and flavors build towards the dramatic, large-scaled finish. This is quite simply one of the finest – if not the finest – wine I have ever tasted from Roero. It is clearly the qualitative equivalent of many a Barolo or Barbaresco. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2023. Once again, Almondo has turned out a fabulous set of wines. Readers who want to explore Roero should start here. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644

The 2006 Roero Riserva Giovanni Almondo is the biggest and richest of these Roeros. It also shows the most influence of French oak and comes very close to being out of balance. There is just enough intensity in the dark fruit and sweet mentholated nuances to provide a counter, but at the end of the day, the fruit is so striking in its beauty I can only wonder what level this Riserva might reach with a more subtle approach to oak aging. Still, there is no denying the Riserva’s considerable beauty. Hints of smoke and minerals add further nuance on the wonderfully polished, refined finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Almondo is an excellent source for varietally true, expressive wines from Roero. The red Roeros are particularly impressive this year. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644