The rather simple 2009 Reserva has a mixture of fruit aromas, hints of smoke and well-seasoned barrels accented by an animal whiff. The palate is medium-bodied, with some grainy tannins. 75,00 bottles.

The 2008 Reserva is like a toned-down version of the Crianza 2010, as I feel the fruit has been slightly dried out by the wood. While the aromas and flavors of black spices, tar and smoke are more obvious over the fruit, the palate reveals more tannin and acidity and the two extra years of age are evident. Drink 2014-2015. This is the old Heredad de Baroja winery, which was re-founded under the name Lar de Paula in 2002. Imported by The Spanish Wine Importers, Stafford, VA and Well Oiled Wine Company, Leesburg, VA; www.welloiledwineco.com

The 2005 Reserva has a spicy nose with touches of balsamic and cooked meat. The palate is medium-bodied with a juicy entry of blackberry, tobacco and black pepper with a structured, bay leaf-tinged finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. Drink 2013-2019. Bodegas Lar de Paula is owned by Fernando Meruelo and his family, who also own Bodegas Heredad de Baroja. Importer: The Spanish Wine Importers, tvernon@importingspain.com

Raspberry, lilac. Ripe summer pudding fruit, creamy vanilla oak, with spicy, earthy finish. Tannins grippy but supple.