Neumayer 釀制的 2010 年的 Gruner Veltliner Rafesetzen 酸度高，圓潤不足，散發(fā)著清爽濃郁的檸檬、橘子味，并伴有明顯辛辣的蒔蘿、牛至味。帶有明快的柑橘酸味，口感厚重，散發(fā)著白堊土的氣息，余味悠長多汁，活力四射。此款酒濃郁清新，至少還能窖藏 6 至 8 年。 盡管他的頂級 Rieslings 在二月份才發(fā)酵，然而，與其它酒一樣，在四月份就可裝瓶。

The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Rafesetzen, shares with the Engelberg a bright, slightly tart fruit expression, with rhubarb, huckleberry, and grapefruit predominating. Here a palpable density, glossy texture and lentil-like layer underlie the wine’s frisky acids and juicy refreshment. This should be versatile and stimulating for at least 3-4 years. On account of the hot, dry July, Neumayer says he only did one spraying against mildew and almost no manicuring of the foliage. He picked well into October, since he did not find he was risking such high potential alcohol as his 2006s had reached already in the early days of that month. These wines have what he calls the “cracking” of acidity that invigorates and refreshes. (Note that because of a change in importers at the beginning of this year, prices on these wines were not yet available to me, and the wines themselves will only begin arriving later in the year. Readers should consult my reviews of the 2006s in issue 177 for a ballpark idea of eventual retail prices.) The wines of this years’ Riesling collection chez Neumayer were all very slow to ferment and ended up completely dry at the upper twelve’s in alcohol.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Rafesetzen, at 12.9% alcohol, evinced a pleasantly ripe melon and apple fruit, tinged with green herbs, apple pit, and wet stone. It finishes with satisfying, juicy length, if not especially decisively. Neumayer reports that a warm wind blew through the Traisental in the last days of September, after which he began picking on October 3; just over a month later, he was finished. I have been an enthusiastic proponent of the Sauvignon experiments of Neumayer and a number of Danubian growers, but it is impossible to overlook the fact that - in U.S. dollars, at least - excellent Sancerre can still be had for not much more than half the price of the Giess, and that with the Stein, we are in Dagueneau territory. Austrian Sauvignon outside of Styria may still count as an exotic, but if the wine is excellent, its price tends to be set with the high tariff that applies to single-vineyard Styrian Sauvignon in mind.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Rafesetzen, weighing in at 12.6% alcohol, quite typically, offers a faux Muscat nose of tangerine, orange rind, and sage. In the mouth it is bright and refreshing with a hidden hint of sweetness, yet is a bit leaner and ultimately less succulent than its 2004 counterpart. This Gruner Veltliner’s long, lean, refined citrus and salt finish, though, is not only strikingly Riesling-like, but amply demonstrates its concentration and potential for 4-5 years of improvement. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

His 2004 Gruner Veltliner Rafesetzen represents just the sort of outstanding value that has brought me back to this address year after year. At a modest 12.5% alcohol, this wine manages to incorporate an abundance of ripe flavors and retain mouthwatering vivacity. In the bouquet we have red currants, cress, and lime. The palate is brothy and medium-bodied, suggesting root vegetables, herbs and notes of the aforementioned tart red berries and cress. The long finishing effect here is low-key, soothing, even and satisfying. I guarantee you will get to the bottom of a bottle of this quickly, and that it will be even more interesting – its bargain price notwithstanding – in two or three year’s time. Neumayer, located in the little known Traisental south of Krems, has been one of my personal favorite sources for Austrian wine, so it is a pleasure to report that he now has an American importer. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800