The 2019 Meursault Les Vireuils is one of the highlights of the range, offering up aromas of pear, lemon oil, white flowers and vanilla pod, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and chalky palate that's lively and precise, concluding with a saline finish.

The 2014 Meursault Les Vireuils has a more backward, stonier nose compared to the Meursault Villages, just a hint of lime flower emerging with time. The palate is very well balanced, just a slight reduction on the entry that lends fine mineralité and great tension on the finish. Dare I say, not a million miles away from Coche-Dury!

The 2013 Meursault les Vireuils has a pleasant reduction on the nose: walnut and a wholemeal bread scents emerging with time (is this Benjamin's paean to Coche?) The palate is crisp on the entry with subtle tropical nose: pineapple and melon, hints of dried honey. This is harmonious in the mouth with a bitter-lemon note adding spark on the finish. Very fine, especially for those that enjoy that reductive style of Meursault.

One of the standouts in this range, the 2010 Meursault Les Vireuils (Dessus) illustrates the tension typical of the upper part of the vineyard. Cool, mineral notes dominate at first in this textured, delineated Meursault villages. Energetic and vibrant, the Vireuils could use another year in bottle to come together fully, but is striking, even today. Flowers and flint resonate on the pointed, super-classic finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Benjamin Leroux is probably best known to readers for his superb work at Comte Armand, but the wines Leroux crafts under his own micro-negociant label are equally worthy of attention. Readers may also want to check out my video interview with Leroux on our website for more on his views on current vintages. In addition to the wines listed here, I also tasted just about all the 2011 whites. Those wines are shaping up beautifully and in some cases will rival or perhaps even surpass the 2010s for their balance. If the 2010s have a weakness here, it is that they are at times a bit on the heavy side. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Fine Vines, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, Cavatappi, Washington; tel. (206) 282-5226, Veritas Imports, CA; tel. (310) 205-3800, Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212) 683-8763

The 2009 Meursault Les Vireuils is focused and beautifully delineated. The aromas and flavors show plenty of nuance and harmony in this mid-weight, polished white. This is from the top part of Vireuils, a cool, limestone-rich site. Tasted from tank. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Benjamin Leroux is one of Burgundy’s most promising young winemakers. Leroux is best known for the wines he makes at Comte Armand, one of the reference-point properties in the Cote de Beaune. Since 2007 Leroux has made wines under his own label using a micro-negociant model that has become increasingly popular in Burgundy. Leroux sources fruit from some of Burgundy’s top sites and bottles an eye-popping 27 different wines, most in 2-3 barrel lots. I also tasted a number of 2009 whites. Leroux goes for a tight, mineral-driven style, with no stirring of the lees and ages the whites in 300-liter barrels. Leroux’s passion, ambition and sheer talent have already resulted in a number of stunning, beautiful wines, but my sense is that the best is yet to come. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, imported by Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803, C’Est Vin, District of Columbia; tel. (703) 243-3559, Scott Paul Wines, Oregon; tel. (503) 852-7300, Wines Unlimited, Louisiana; tel. (504) 897-0191