Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain had a slight reduction on the nose, though there is certainly more complexity than its peers here, with subtle cold stone/gunflint notes developing with time in the glass. The palate is fresh with a crisp saline entry, well-judged acidity and a precise, quite spicy, possibly botrytis-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. This is a solid, nervous and just delicious Champ Gain from Benny Leroux.

The 2013 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champgain, from the part above Folatieres, has a terse, wet pavement and Granny Smith apple-scented bouquet that is somehow aloof but intriguing...just very "Puligny." The palate is fresh and vibrant with crisp green apple, touches of orange zest and a precise animated finish that is compelling. Superb.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champgain 2011 from Benjamin Leroux has a reserved bouquet with an attractive marine influence developing, but the nose deteriorates in the glass. The palate is balanced with a rather malic opening, well-judged, keen acidity, a gentle build in the mouth toward a slightly herbaceous and short finish.