The 2019 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru is very promising, wafting from the glass with aromas of orange zest, honeyed pears, white flowers, citrus blossom and toasted almonds. Full-bodied, concentrated and enveloping, it's rich and layered, with huge depth at the core and a long, saline finish.

The 2017 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru was showing very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with aromas of Meyer lemon, tangerine, dried white flowers, green orchard fruit, beeswax and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and expansive, with considerable volume and breadth at the core that's balanced by lively acids that lend the wine energy and tension. The finish is long and pure. This is a beautifully balanced Montrachet that I expect to show very well in bottle.

The 2015 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru was stubbornly backward and broody on the nose: hints of yellow flower and struck flint. Nosing this felt like I was disturbing its prenatal slumber. The palate had more to say. It is well balanced with a brush of honey on the entry, a keen thread of acidity, a hint of spice with a composed yet straight-laced finish that I find less expressive than the Corton-Charlemagne at the moment. Let's see how this turns out in bottle. It's a Montrachet, though that does not necessarily mean it is Drouhin's finest white this vintage.

The 2013 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche was picked October 1-5 and sees 16 months in oak. Véronique had four cuvées to choose from to select the final blend. There is a touch of fennel on the nose that opens beautifully in the glass. The palate is spicy and vibrant on the entry and then it tapers in toward the finish, as if it had just remembered its status. Perhaps this "lapse of memory" will be addressed by the time of bottling and/or with bottling age, but I must confess that at this early juncture, I find that Corton-Charlemagne has more potential. But let's see if it has a surprise in store.