The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières is consistent with my assessment a year ago, opening in the glass with scents of white peach, golden orchard fruit, flowers and pastry cream. Medium-bodied, ample and fleshy, with an open-knit core of fruit, succulent acids and a charming, textural profile, it's already showing well.

Opening in the glass with aromas of struck match, ripe pears, peach and buttery pastry, the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and unctuous, with tangy acids and a comparatively fat, front-loaded style, emphasizing the ripeness of which the vintage was capable.

The 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Folatières was picked on September 17 and will spend 14 months in oak. It has a classy nose, perhaps more detailed and nuanced than the Meursault Genevrières with white flowers and nutmeg accompanying the citrus fruit. There is a simmering sense of energy here. The palate is saline on the entry with a hint of bitter lemon, clean and precise with a subtle marine influence towards the sustained finish. Bon vin - as they say.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. Deeper in color, the Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 2011 from Joseph Drouhin does not possess the delineation as Bachelet-Monot’s, though there are attractive honeysuckle and yellow flower scents that emerge. The nose is also marked with plenty of botrytis. The palate is nicely balanced, a little more “worked” than I expected and quite phenolic. There is a slight waxiness to the texture but there is an appealing vibrant and spicy finish. Fine. But dare I say just a little commercial considering the premier cru in question?

One of the more unusual wines in the lineup, the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres presents an intriguing, at times exotic, array of juicy yellow fruit, lychee and flowers. The Folatieres takes on tropical notes as the wine’s large-scaled, voluptuous personality begins to emerge. There is a slight hint of botrytis-like sweetness that adds considerable character and personality. This is a decidedly lush style that works beautifully. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. This is a striking set of wines from Drouhin. Veronique Drouhin describes 2010 as a year with cool temperatures in July and August, but much better weather in September. As is the case throughout the region, I found the Pulignys especially ripe and exotic. I also tasted a range of the 2011s. Drouhin told me she thought the wines would need a little extra time in barrel to give them more body and volume. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770