The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Procès offers up an expressive and fruit-driven bouquet of cherries, cassis, raspberries and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and exuberant palate with a voluminous core of fruit that largely conceals its firm, stony structuring tannins. Its charm and generosity make it one of the high points of the range this year.

The 2016 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Procès is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with complex aromas of smoky dark berry fruit, black truffles, grilled game birds and subtle forest floor. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and velvety, with a deep and concentrated core of fruit that's marked by the year's low yields, bright acids, ripe tannins and a long, resonant finish. This is a great success and well worth seeking out, though it won't be easy to find.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, Drouhin's 2014 Nuits St George 1er Cru les Procès had a broody nose at first, almost as if there were TCA, although monitoring the wine over ten minutes I felt this was not the case and was rather the influence of the 15% stem addition. Underneath lie quite attractive red berry fruit laced with black tea and earthiness. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin, tightly wound and focused but broody. It cuts away a little quickly on the finish, but it does gain more and more cohesion. It is just compromised by the dry and bitter aspect of this mercurial Nuits Saint-Georges, but I expect it will improve with bottle age. Tasted September 2017.

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Les Proces (from tank) is a fat, juicy wine endowed with terrific depth and plumpness in its fruit. The structure of Nuits comes through on the powerful finish, but ultimately this remains a fairly generous 2010 at this young stage. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. This is an impressive showing from Drouhin. In my view the 2010s are more interesting and transparent than the 2009s. Veronique Drouhin describes 2010 as a vintage with long-term aging potential, which certainly seems to be the case. Some of the wines were vinified with a portion of whole clusters, including the Corton-Bressandes, Petits-Monts, Charmes and Musigny.Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2009 Nuits St.-Georges Les Proces (from the southern part of the village) comes across as tightly coiled and tense for the year, even for Nuits. Sweet spiced cherries and crushed flowers are some of the notes that emerge from this focused wine. There is enough sweetness to make me think the fruit will emerge in another few years, so I am hopeful here. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2024. Drouhin farms 75 hectares of vineyards according to biodynamic principles. Maceration and fermentation lasts about three weeks. The wines are then racked into oak in a cold part of the cellar to slow down the malos, although in 2009 they were entirely done by December. The estate leaves the wines on their lees for several months with one racking, or two if needed, prior to being assembled for bottling. New oak ranges from 25% for the entry-level wines to 50-65% for the grand crus. Veronique Drouhin thinks the 2009s will stay open throughout their lives, much as the 1985s have. All of these 2009s were bottled between early December, 2010 and January, 2011. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770