Another of the more tightly wound wines in the cellar when I visited was the 2019 Corton-Clos du Roi Grand Cru (Maison Louis Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, firm and rather compact wine evocative of cherries, raspberries, orange rind and spicy new oak. I strongly suspect it will flesh out with further élevage.

Often one of the better bottlings from the Maison portfolio, this year's 2018 Corton-Clos du Roi Grand Cru (Maison Louis Jadot) is showing very well, revealing aromas of red berries, licorice, sweet soil tones and exotic spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a rounder, more enveloping profile than the Corton-Grèves, concluding with a nicely defined, mineral finish.

One of the decided successes of the négociant portfolio this year is the 2017 Corton-Clos du Roi Grand Cru (Maison Louis Jadot), a lovely wine that offers up a complex nose of dark berries, red cherry, dried flowers, forest floor and dark chocolate. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and detailed, with good concentration, a fine-grained chassis of chalky tannin and a long finish. This is an insider's choice that will be worth seeking out.

The 2016 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru (Maison Louis Jadot) was purchased as wine, rather than vinified by Jadot, but they clearly have a good source, as it has turned out very well in bottle. Aromas of succulent wild berry fruit, bergamot and grilled squab introduce a full-bodied, ample wine with velvety tannins, succulent acids and a fleshy, enveloping core of fruit.

The 2014 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru clearly has the most ostentatious bouquet of the three Cortons from Louis Jadot with bold black cherry, red plum and bergamot aromas swarming from the glass. The palate is well balanced with good volume, a Corton of length, breadth and volume, though I might just prefer the finesse demonstrated by the Corton Grèves. If you like a little hedonism in your Corton however, go for this.