The 2021 Ladoix Le Clou d'Orge (Domaine Gagey) is a wine that will delight readers who prize cut and tension in white Burgundy. Exhibiting aromas of crisp green apple, citrus zest and wet stones, it's medium to full-bodied, with racy acids and an incisive, tightly wound palate, concluding with a long, chalky finish.

The 2020 Ladoix Le Clou d'Orge (Domaine Gagey) is a ripe, fleshy rendition of a cuvée that's generally quite chiseled. Bursting with aromas of orange oil and honeyed peaches, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and textural, though it retains lively balancing acidity. To me, it's missing a little cut this year.

One of the finest values in the range is the 2019 Ladoix Le Clou d'Orge (Domaine Gagey), a bright and chiseled wine that evokes pear, waxy citrus peel, struck match and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, layered and incisive, it concludes with a saline, mouthwatering finish.

Exhibiting aromas of pear, citrus zest, fresh pastry and struck flint, the 2018 Ladoix Le Clou d'Orge (Domaine Gagey) is medium to full-bodied, chiseled and tensile, with tangy acids and a mineral finish.

The 2017 Ladoix Le Clou d'Orge (Domaine Gagey) is showing well from bottle, unwinding in the glass with hints of lemon oil, crisp white peach and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's deep but chiseled, with fine concentration, racy acids and a long, mineral finish. This is an understated but characterful wine that's beautifully defined by site.