Opening in the glass with aromas of cherries, red plums and cassis mingled with subtle hints of coniferous forest floor, the 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes (Maison Louis Jadot) is medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with an open-knit core of succulent fruit framed by melting tannins. Attractively balanced and immediate but only moderately concentrated, this Charmes boasts considerable near- to mid-term appeal.

It was Pierre-Henri Gagey himself who poured the 1915 Chambolle-Musigny Charmes and the impeccable provenance probably has something to do with its exquisite showing. Open-knit on the ferrous nose with hints of dried leaves and sous-bois, the bouquet is very well-defined and still vital. The palate is light but very well-balanced, understated at first, drawing you in and then surprising you with its sheer weight and presence on the finish. Absolutely delightful – though I doubt I will ever encounter it again! Tasted November 2013.