The king of the cellar is the 2019 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru Les Quatre Journaux, a full-bodied, layered and muscular wine that's rich and concentrated, evocative of peonies, blackberries and exotic spices. Long and penetrating, this is very promising.

The king of the cellar is the 2019 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru Les Quatre Journaux, a full-bodied, layered and muscular wine that's rich and concentrated, evocative of peonies, blackberries and exotic spices. Long and penetrating, this is very promising.

The king of the cellar is Latour's 2018 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru Les Quatre Journaux, an ample and enveloping wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, wild berries, dark chocolate, rich spices and orange rind. Full-bodied, fleshy and muscular, it's supple and broad-shouldered, concluding with a long and expansive finish.

Aromas of raspberries, exotic spices, dried flowers and candied peel preface the 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru Les Quatre Journaux, a full-bodied, ample wine that's broader shouldered and more structured than even Latour's Chambertin, with a deep, layered core of juicy balancing acids, concluding with a long finish. It's a definite success.

The 2015 Romanee St Vivant les Quatre Journaux Grand Cru is a lovely wine, and one which is likely to surprise in blind tastings in a few years' time. A pretty nose of rose petal, ripe red cherry, dark chocolate, anise and incipient smoked duck introduces a full-bodied, supple wine with a lavish, expansive attack, good depth, and an ample chassis of fine-grained tannins. The finish is deceptively long. This wine seems likely to be one of the more approachable 2015 grand crus and should give pleasure throughout a broad window.