The 2004 Barolo Brunate is a fresh, vibrant offering loaded with dark red fruit, tobacco, smoke and licorice. This mid-weight Barolo possesses terrific depth and elegant, finessed tannins. Brunate is one of Piedmont’s ‘grand cru’ vineyards, so it’s a shame to see so much of that site’s character obscured by the French oak. Still, this is an unquestionably beautiful Barolo from Chiarlo. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2022. This is a very solid set of wines from Michele Chiarlo, a producer who seems to be moving in the right direction with regards to quality.Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

A really old-fashioned Barolo; the nose is all plums, road tar and roses, with the road tar becoming dominant after a few minutes in the glass. On the palate, it is light-bodied, perfumed and very pretty, with the fruit making a good comeback. Although it could use a touch more concentration, it is a fine example of a traditional Barolo.——M.G.(4/1/2007)—— 90