Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes has a crisp bouquet with fine mineralité and tension. The palate is fresh and vibrant with real brightness and energy, the oak neatly enmeshed with a spicy, walnut and hazelnut driven-finish. This Meursault Charmes has loads of potential but it does need time that many do not afford to Olivier Leflaive's wines, unwisely I might add.

The 2010 Meursault Charmes wraps around the palate with seductive layers of rich, expressive fruit. There is plenty of suppleness and generosity, the only thing missing is the visceral thrill this premier cru site is capable of delivering. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. This is a solid set of wines from Olivier Leflaive's negociant operation. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

This is a rich, rounded wine, yet it also expresses a tight texture and nervy acidity. The toast influence is still dominating, although the fruitiness of this ripe selection is also showing. With its weight and structure, this is a prime candidate to age for several years. — (4/1/2013) —92

A whiff of chalk or gravel dust leads off, with apple and melon flavors following. This is big and powerful, as citrus and spice grace the finish. Drink now through 2018. 100 cases imported. -BS