Sadly, there is but one barrel (25 cases) of the outstanding 2003 Meursault Charmes Cuvee Speciale (white). Its apricot and pear-scented nose leads to a plush, oil-textured core of toast, liqueur of minerals, and poached pears. Medium-bodied, armed with gorgeous depth of fruit, and possessing an impressively long, polished finish, this is a candidate for drinking over the next decade. Bravo to Patrick Javillier! A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93, importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; also imported by David Shiverick, Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800; and Wines Ltd., Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662

The rich, exotic, spicy, 2002 Meursault Charmes Cuvee Speciale is a medium-bodied, lush, broad wine. This nectar of Chardonnay bastes the palate with thick, oily layers of dense white peaches, apricots, and poached pears, whose effects linger in its impressively long, supple finish. This well-ripened, decadent wine should be drunk over the next 8-9 years. Importers: David Shiverick, Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800, Wines Ltd, Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662; and a Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910

Exotic aromas of apricots, pears, and peaches can be found in the nose of Javillier’s 2001 Meursault Charmes Cuvee Speciale. This medium-bodied, plush wine is jam-packed with fruit. Its supple waves of pulp-laden pears and jammy apricots are intermingled with compelling hints of an underlying minerality. Projected maturity: now-2010. To Patrick Javillier, 2001 was a classic vintage with normal ripeness levels and problem-free fermentations, “I really don’t see where the problems are ... total acidity was in the 5.5 to 6.0 range and finished pHs were between 3.2 and 3.25, it’s all very classic.”

Loads of spiced white fruits can be found in the aromatics of the 2000 Meursault Charmes Mise Speciale. This refined wine is medium-bodied, pure, and satin-textured. It exhibits a lovely panoply of apples, pears, apricots, and a faint hint of lychee nuts whose effects linger in its long, supple finish. Drink it over the next 8-9 years. Importers: David Shiverick, Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800, Wines Ltd, Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662; and a Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910

The 1999 Meursault Charmes "Cuvee Speciale" reveals a gorgeous apricot and mineral-laced nose. Ripe yellow fruits and stones can be found in this well-balanced, light to medium-bodied, and velvety-textured wine. While exotic and lush, it lacks complexity. Importers: David Shiverick, Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel (216) 861-6800, Wines Ltd, Hanover, MD; tel (800) 762-0662; and a Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910.