The 2001 Eterno demonstrates just how good well-cultivated Sangiovese can be even in a zone where white wine predominates. A glowing ruby-garnet in color, the powerful notes of ripe red currants and wild cherries, cloves, cinnamon, and incense are followed by warm, broad palate, mouth-filling and rich, but with the velvet and the caressing texture which are the trademark of wines of superior breed. It will continue to give exceptional pleasure for another dozen years. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

The 2000 Eterno, the house’s top Sangiovese, is usually significantly more important than Bottaccio, but the difference between the two vintages has narrowed the gap. The powerful nose of plums, cinnamon, and chocolate is nonetheless impressive, as is the concentration and intensity on the palate, but the tannins do not have the roundness and velvet of a superior year. (European readers should be aware that in the Italian market, this wine is known as Paterno II.) Importer: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880