The 2006 Eterno II is one of the few disappointments in this line up. Lean, hard and angular it offers little pleasure or complexity to speak of. Anticipated maturity: 2010-?. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880

The 2005 Eterno II is a muscular, sinewy wine. Red fruits, tobacco and sweet herbs are some of the nuances that flow from this mid-weight offering. The wine positively sparkles on the palate, showing outstanding persistence and a classy, refined finish that makes it hard to put down the glass. This is a terrific wine from Podere del Paradiso. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Podere del Paradiso was one of the most pleasant discoveries of this year’s tastings of new Tuscan releases. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880