The 2010 Alvarinho “Docil 9%” always reminds me of a German Mosel Kabinett. A bit off dry and still crisp, it typically seems simply irresistible. This year, it seems a bit sweeter, more Spatlese perhaps than Kabinett, but it is quite delicious, while not showing quite the same tension as the2009 – perhaps because the sugar is momentarily covering it up. That nuance might well blow off, though, with some age. Try it, you’ll like it. It is the perfect summer porch wine. In general terms, I just loved this bottling – if I lived in Portugal, I’d be stocking up by the case. Drink now-2017. Soalheiro does export to the USA, but only some of its labels. The Reserva, for instance. is not exported. These were tasted only in Portugal with winemaker Luis Cerdeira. Unlike most wineries in the region, Soalheiro is known for making things that age a long, long while. Still, while I allow for that in the drinking windows, travel issues and variations resulting therefrom make me remain at least a little conservative in drinking windows.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044

The 2008 ALVARINHO “DOCIL 9%” is the nod here to more traditional styles in the region (although this is Alvarinho, not a blend). As such, this is not going to be the wine that everyone points to as a powerhouse representing a new direction for the region. It won’t be the wine that has the “tres snob” appeal. It may just be the one everyone wants most to drink, however, as well as the one that gets underrated because it has a little sugar and seems gentler --at first. In any event, it executes its style brilliantly. Off-dry and low in alcohol (that’s the “9%” prominent on the label), this Alvarinho is something that exudes flavor, but that’s not all there is here. What makes the wine is its depth and fine acidity, the balance between the sugar and the acid. It drinks great the next day, and the perception of its balance gradually changes from sugar-dominated to acidity-dominated as time goes on. It often seems rather Spatlese-ish. It should age very well, especially for this style, but as the sugar fades with time, it may acquire a rather different character. Debonair, crisp and refreshing, this is a wine only the churlish could dislike. It is drinking beautifully now, but I think it will age better than seems apparent at first taste. It should age consistent with how the other wines from this winery, known for making unusually ageworthy wines, perform. This would be my pick of the releases reviewed this issue. Drink now-2016. Notwithstanding the track record here for aging, these are the types of wines that often do not travel well and that merit some conservatism in a published drinking window. They may well last longer.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044