The balsamic 2022 Branco, a blend of 40% Viosinho, 30% Gouveio and 30% Rabigato from high-altitude vines on granite soils, has notes of waxy apples, bay leaf and a round and soft palate. In 2022, they had a warm summer but managed to keep the alcohol at 12%. It's clean, modern and easy to drink. Part (15%) of the volume matured in French oak barrels for three months with batonnage. 108,456 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2023.

The 2021 Branco is a blend of 40% Viosinho, 30% Gouveio and 30% Rabigato, unoaked (but for 15% of the juice aged for three months in used French barriques). It comes in at 12.3% alcohol. One of the more reliable fresh whites in the region, this is a consistent pleasure, with enough concentration to avoid thinness but always emphasizing its freshness. There have been some years that are more concentrated, but it is hard to argue with the lively feel and smooth texture. This is very nice.

The 2020 Branco is a blend of 40% Viosinho, 30% Gouveio and 30% Rabigato, unoaked (but for 15% of the juice aged for three months in used French barriques). It comes in at 12.2% alcohol. This is rarely if ever a profound white, but its enticing freshness, purity and balance always make it a pleasure to drink. There is just enough tension on the finish, but this is an easygoing fresh white that should be a pleasure to drink in warm weather. This is a no-brainer pick for sipping on the porch. This can hold a few years, but it will be at its best if drunk very young.

The 2019 Branco is a blend of 40% Viosinho, 30% Gouveio and 30% Rabigato, unoaked (but for 15% of the juice aged for three months in used barrels) and coming in at 13% alcohol. Relatively stern and serious for this category of white (a summer-styled fresh white), this does show the wood a bit in its texture. The wood might also mute the flavors a bit. As time goes on, this is not strictly a fresh white anymore, even if the oak impact is very modest. Still, this is lovely. It is balanced and fresh, with a fruit-forward demeanor, but the fruit is always dry and understated. The whole package is very appealing at a reasonable price point. It can age but do yourself and it a favor and drink it on the younger side. It won't become anything special in the cellar. It's worth leaning up today.

The 2018 Branco, in a bottle about four months when seen, is a blend of 40% Viosinho, 30% Gouveio and 30% Rabigato, unoaked (but for 15% of the juice for three months in used barrels) and coming in at 12% alcohol. This is not the most concentrated wine, but it is rather terrific in its freshness, clean finish and balanced demeanor. It's a classic fresh white that also has an extra dimension—an ability to age a bit. This is lovely, a wine that winemaker Manuel Lobo compares to the gracefully aging 2008.