The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots exhibits a deep-pitched nose of smoky, spicy berry fruit, ripe plums and loamy soil, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and layered palate that's quite firmly structured and seriously constructed, concluding with a long, fragrant finish. It will require and reward some patience.

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots has a sensual bouquet with creme de cassis and crushed violet aromas—just very Suchots. The palate is sweet and generous on the entry with layers of black cherry and cassis fruit. Maybe it would benefit from a little more Pinoté, but it conveys the vintage and vineyard in assured, exuberant fashion.

The 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru les Suchots has a refined bouquet with raspberry and a fresh punnet of strawberries interlaced with undergrowth and woodland scents. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins, quite lively red cherry and raspberry fruit with just a slight tininess coming through on the finish. It does not quite possess the exuberance of joie-de-vivre of les Suchots, but it is nicely focused.

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots comes from purchased fruit. It has plenty of redcurrant and strawberry jam on the seductive bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins allied with a fine line of acidity that segues into a composed finish that does not forsake the vineyards trademark voluptuousness. This is a seductive Les Suchots that should drink well over the next decade. You may have heard of Pierre-Antoine Rovani. One of Burgundy’s most shy and retiring members, he was his usual taciturn self, uttering all but one or two words during my Sunday afternoon tasting of 2012s in Remoissenet’s 14th century cellars, just off the Beaune peripherique. You know the story here: the name reborn in 2005 when outside investors prompted a Damascene resurrection of what had fundamentally been an also-ran bottling operation, into a quality-driven concern and vinifying wines themselves. Their policy is to buy at premium in order to acquire the best fruit, except for the 2.5-hectare of vineyard that they own themselves. With general manager and former Louis Jadot president Bernard Repolt, winemaker Claudine Jobard and chef de culture Fred Le Prince (a wonderful name that sounds like a lost bassist from Funkadelic), this has been one of the region’s recent success stories. They recently purchased the cuverie at Chateau de Chorey to make the Bourgogne Rouge and Givry Village. They use “342s” as Pierre Antoine referred to them i.e. 342-litre barrels casks for vinifying most of their wines. They have a large portfolio of both domaine and negociant wines that I tasted at a leisurely pace on a Sunday afternoon. And I must say, I was impressed by their 2012s. Sure, not everything hits the spot with such a comprehensive and diverse array of wines, but the fact is that many crus showed very well. As Rovani mentioned, there is a gap in the market for affordable Burgundy, one that will surely expand as the top names become prohibitively expensive for mere mortals. That is where Remoissenet can fit in and having overhauled their reds, it sounds as if they will be working on ameliorating their whites in future years, not that they are anything to be ashamed of now. Hey, and you know what? Even Pierre-Antoine was beginning to lose his inhibition and comes out of his shell by the end of the tasting. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460. Also available through Avery’s Wine Merchants in Bristol (UK).