Remoissenet’s solo barrel of 2007 Volnay comes from the exposed, nose-bleed summit of the village and a site they cropped to the almost absurd equivalent of 8 hectoliters per hectare. Veteran Volnay vigneron Jean-Pierre Charlot of Joseph Voillot teased Remoissenet’s Pierre Rovani that this was the first time in their long history that those vines had ripened a crop (picked September 10)! The result will not soon be forgotten by however few folks are able to taste this, although its Riesling-like sense of acidity and enervating fruit-mineral interplay won’t be everyone’s cup of red Burgundy. Tart red currant and cherry are laced with lemon zest, white pepper, chalk, salt, cherry pits and fresh ginger, with mouth-watering refreshment, tongue-curling piquancy, and rapier penetration the order of the day. Who knows how this extreme exercise in Pinot will age, but if you drink it young, expect its talents at table to be singular. Remoissenet owns a significant share of Pinot Noir acreage in both Cotes, to which they will be adding, in contrast to their circumstances with Chardonnay, wherein their control over a large share of Montrachet is unique, and represents the bargaining chip employed to acquire fruit or young wines as a negociant. (For further details on the “new Remoissenet” begun in 2006, its evolution and its personnel, please consult my report on their 2007 vintage whites in issue 189.) The low yields and late harvest to which the team here pledges allegiance has led to two impressive collections. With regard to my speculations concerning longevity, bear in mind that no track record has yet been established under the current regime, the upbringing of pre-2006 wines under the Remoissenet label being utterly irrelevant. Importers: Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476.

This 1985 red is a soundly made, correct wine. The wines have more tart acidity at Remoissenet than elsewhere, as well as more noticeable alcohol levels and tannins. It is, like virtually all 1985s, well colored.

The range of Remoissenet wines from the Cote de Beaune was surprisingly mediocre.

One of the offerings in Remoissenet’s Cellar Collection, the 1978 Volnay is in great shape. A core of dark red berries, game, smoke, tar and licorice wraps around the palate. The aromatics are a bit more forward than the fruit, but the structure is pure 1978. The house’s 1978 Volnay has aged beautifully, especially for a village wine. Anticipated maturity: 2012. I was very impressed with the 2010 whites I tasted at Remoissenet this year. While most of the top wines are terrific, personally I find just as much pleasure in the many delicious offerings from humbler appellations in this extensive range. Remoissenet purchases fruit and/or wines for many of their offerings. I would not be surprised if there is less competition for the fruit/wines from those less prestigious appellations, which makes it easier to source top quality raw materials. As always, Remoissenet strives for a style built on full phenolic ripeness and harvests that are on the late side relative to most estates. My favorite wines are those where the richness of the fruit is accompanied by complementary minerality and vibrancy. I also tasted a handful of reds from Remoissenet’s Cellar Collection. These are wines that have been cellared in Remoissenet’s cellars for several decades. Prior to being re-released, the wines are decanted to remove sediment, topped up and sealed with a new cork. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460