The 2010 Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Puer Apuliae is a super dense and concentrated wine that occupies a sure place on the deepest, darkest and thickest side of the wine spectrum. The oak use is very obvious and it definitely goes too far in my opinion. Thick layers of exotic spice, cinnamon and cardamom pod sit heavy over jammy fruit notes, dried blackberry and prune. This is a seriously big wine that leaves an indelible mark on all the senses. I'm not confident that those oak tones will ever fade. This top shelf wine is the weak link in an otherwise stunning set of new releases from Rivera.

The 2009 Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Puer Apuliae is one of the top wines from Puglia today in terms of pedigree and sophistication. The bouquet is seamless and dense with a beautiful sense of varietal pureness. It is a pure expression of Nero di Troia (aged in oak for 14 months) with a plentiful bouquet of dark cherry, blackberry, licorice, cola, pressed flowers and grilled herbs. The floral component is its most compelling characteristic. Smooth tannins and bright acidity give the wine a sense of integrity and persistency. Many reds from Puglia can taste jammy and heavy. This wine however delivers elegance and focus.

The 2008 Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Puer Apuliae shows a great sense of inner freshness and energy. This is a pure expression of Nero di Troia (a grape that has its origins in ancient Greece as the name "Black Troy" suggests) aged in French barrique for 14 months. It opens to a dark, inky color and delivers aromas of cherry, blackberry, Indian spice and pressed rose. It is linear, clean and offers an authentic taste of this relatively obscure Italian grape. Puer Apuliae has the natural acidity for another five years of healthy evolution.

The 2007 Nero di Troia Puer Apuliae explodes from the glass with blackberries, blueberries, tar, smoke, licorice and violets. Mint and flowers wrap around the intense, building finish. The tannins are big and bold today, but should begin to melt away in another few years. Rivera gives the Puer Apuliae 14 months in new French oak. My sense is the wine could be even better with less oak influence given the striking purity of the fruit. Regardless, the Puer Apuliae is one of the handful of wines of southern Italy imbued with true pedigree. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027. Rivera is one of the top names in Puglia. The entry-level wines generally deliver excellent value while the higher-end wines compete with the best in the region. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2006 Aglianico Cappellaccio, which the estate felt needed more time in bottle. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725

The 2004 Nero di Troia Puer Apuliae is a rich, opulent wine bursting with dark cherries, herbs, chocolate and sweet toasted oak. This full-bodied, dense and appealing wine will benefit from another year or two of bottle age which should allow the firm tannins to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725