The 1998 Vigna Serra (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera, and Nebbiolo from Le Serra vineyard) offers classic Piedmontese characteristics of licorice, tobacco, black cherry liqueur, and dried herbs, as well as a medium-bodied, elegant, stylish, moderately weighty palate impression. It is meant to be drunk during its first 5-7 years of life. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 1997 Vignaserra (a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in 100% new oak, and bottled unfiltered) exhibits a bouquet of wild flowers (particularly lavender), and blackberry and cherry fruit. There is fine suppleness, density, and spiciness, as well as a complex, elegant, rich, nicely-layered palate and finish. It should drink well for 7-8 years. Importer: A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Voerzio seems incapable of making a mediocre wine in recent vintages. This 1990 Nebbiolo/Barbera blend Vignaserra is a lusciously fruity, medium to full-bodied, soft wine that is ideal for drinking over the next 5-6 years. Think of it as the Pomerol of Piedmont! It possesses savory jammy, berry fruit buttressed by attractive spice and underlying acidity. With noticeable alcoholic clout, it is immensely satisfying on a hedonistic level, as well as full of personality. It should be drunk over the next 6-7 years. Importer: Viva Vino Imports, Eddystone, PA.

Voerzio's innovative blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo, the 1988 Vigna La Serra, is an uncommonly seductive wine, with a wonderful fragrance of red fruits, spices, herbs, and tar. In the mouth, the wine exhibits gorgeous ripeness, a round, generously endowed, supple texture, and a long, rich, concentrated finish. Precocious enough to be drunk now, this wine should easily last for 5-7 years. Impressive! It has been a number of years since I have tasted this producer's wines, but I was immensely impressed with his current offerings. Importer: Viva Vino Imports, Eddystone, PA.