The 2007 Romitorio di Santedame (Colorino, Merlot) is one of the few wines in the Ruffino lineup that is ideally suited to the estate’s approach to winemaking. It is a gorgeous, sumptuous wine bursting with dark fruit, crushed rocks and flowers. Despite its opulence, the wine also possesses striking minerality and freshness on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

The 2006 Romitorio di Santedame, 60% Colorino, 40% Merlot, flows from the glass with layers of mineral-infused dark fruit, earthiness and new leather. Though a touch inward today, this powerful red seems to have plenty of potential for the future. The finish is long, clean and nicely articulated. This is by far the best of the new releases from Ruffino. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Admittedly, I was very disappointed with the wines I tasted from Ruffino this year. The estate’s search for ripeness and opulence has yielded wines that as a group increasingly lack any real character. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

Ruffino's 2005 Romitorio di Santedame (Colorino and Merlot) is bold, exotic and beautiful. The wine reveals striking depth in its dark cherries, plums, minerals, coffee beans and spices. There is substantial clarity and precision to match the wine's concentration. This is a gorgeous, highly successful effort from Ruffino. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. These new releases from Ruffino stand out for a style that aims for extreme concentration and intensity. Once again I get the sense the estate is simply trying too hard and that the wines might benefit from an easing off of the accelerator. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

The 2004 Romitorio di Santedame is Colorino and Merlot aged in French oak. Super-ripe dark cherries, new leather, spices, licorice and tar emerge, despite the presence of a very heavy handed use of French oak. Here, too, the wine possesses excellent depth but the search for concentration has left the wine with hard, astringent tannins that dominate its balance. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018 Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

The 2003 Romitorio Tenuta di Santedame is easily the most interesting of these wines. A blend of 60% Colorino and 40% Merlot, it reveals complex, kaleidoscopic aromatics that develop beautifully in the glass leading to layers of sweet dark fruit, mint, herbs and toasted oak. Richly concentrated in the palate, it offers outstanding depth of expression and a long, sweet finish. Anticipated maturity 2009-2019. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111