The 2007 Syrah shows little in the way of varietal or regional typicity. Hints of dark fruit and black pepper struggle to emerge in the glass, but this is really lacking in precision. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

The 2006 Cortona Syrah, from the estate’s Lodola Nuova estate, shows little varietal character in its dark, jammy fruit. The tannins dry out on the finish, adding to an impression of leanness and austerity. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Admittedly, I was very disappointed with the wines I tasted from Ruffino this year. The estate’s search for ripeness and opulence has yielded wines that as a group increasingly lack any real character. Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111