This is a beautifully made wine and a special expression of one of Tuscany's great under-the-radar grapes. The 2019 Pugnitello stands proud as a monovarietal wine thanks to its dark concentration, soft ripeness, blackberry preserves, earth, black truffle and crushed rose. The full-bodied mouthfeel is extracted but also soft, giving this wine a medium-term drinking window. In fact, it is preferable to drink this bottle up until the 10-year mark when that velvety primary fruit is in its prime. This is a production of 7,000 bottles.

This is a handsome bottle, both in terms of its label design and its contents. The 2016 Pugnitello is an inky dark expression with a finely chiseled bouquet that sees black fruit, spice and dusty mineral overtones. The mouthfeel offers mild dimension and depth, but there's enough beautiful intensity on the bouquet to make up for that. I'm not sure what to suggest as a drinking window, although I wouldn't push this wine for more than ten years. Indeed, it is best consumed when that bouquet is still so bright and intense, served with chicken-liver paté on crostini. Only 8,000 bottles were released.

This is a wine I always look forward to tasting year after year. It is pretty much the only pure expression of the fascinating Pugnitello grape I run into during my annual tastings. The 2013 Pugnitello shows darkness of color and leaves a powerful mark in terms of aromas. Those cherry and black currant characteristics are enriched and sharply defined. This indigenous grape is named after a "little fist" due to the clutched and tight nature of its small clusters. You taste that extra concentration in the mouth where the wine wraps tightly over the palate with firm structure and rich texture. It sees up to 20 months in barrique. Only 8,000 bottles are made.

The 2011 Pugnitello opens to rich thickness and inky black concentration. I am always excited by the opportunity to taste this rare Tuscan indigenous grape, but the 2011 vintage comes close to being too ripe and chewy for my tastes. The wine's alcoholic power (measured at 15%) and syrupy concentration take away from its inner nuances and complexity. There finish offers a touch of sour acidity.

The 2010 Pugnitello da San Felice is the latest edition of what I think is one of Tuscany’s most interesting wines. Not many producers can boast a 100% expression of this little-known grape. Pugnitello is fermented on its skins, followed by 18 months in French oak. The results are earthy and spicy with veins of dark prune and plum followed by wet terracotta, grilled herb and tangy spice. This is an interesting wine from a food pairing point of view: I could imagine it served with game meat or stews.