Moosbrugger 常常為他最好的酒賦予一種由濃度和豐富而新鮮的礦物質(zhì)風(fēng)味所達成的平衡感，2010 年的 Gruner Veltliner Renner 出色地展示了這種特色。這款酒突出著焦糖蘿卜、歐洲防風(fēng)草、甜菜根、甜菜、煙草、堅果油的味道，同時交織著無數(shù)礦物質(zhì)（包括碘酒、鐵屑、碎石頭）的氣息。酒中實際的殘余糖份只有 3 克，但豐富的甘油和焦糖氣息給酒的風(fēng)味添加了微妙的甜味。余味蘊含著十足的活力--包括濃郁的煙草、香料、胡椒味，這種具有豪華質(zhì)地、低調(diào)風(fēng)味特征的酒是非凡而卓越的。是該年份和該地區(qū)其中一款最引人注目的 Gruner Veltliner ，至少值得再珍藏 10 年。

Another variation on loess and rocks (the eroded gneiss base of the Gasiberg), Gobelsburg’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Renner displays a savory, saline, peppery, and crystalline mineral depth that positively shimmers through the wine’s concentration of caramelized parsnip, coffee, peach, and tobacco. Musky, spicy notes waft throughout like the perfume of some exotic orchid. This is practically severe in its firmness and palpable sense of extract when compared to the Steinsetz, but as it evolves in bottle, its deep richness and caramel notes will become more prominent, while its illusive suggestions of flowers and minerals remain. I would plan on following this for a decade, if not longer. Michael Moosbrugger did not begin his main white wine harvest – even for lighter-weight Gruner Veltliner – until mid-October. Unlike most Krems area growers he also picked nobly sweet wine, based on a late bloom of botrytis. Moosbrugger seems to have achieved some (considering the weather) surprisingly successful reds in 2007, having painstakingly cut off half of each cluster to inhibit the development of rot, then harvested prior to any of his whites. (I’ll report on those reds after I have re-tasted them from bottle. For notes on two outstanding 2006 vintage reds which have since lived up to their promise in bottle, consult my report in issue 177.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300