The 2005 Tagonius Crianza is 37% Merlot, 32% Syrah with the balance Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 20% new French and American oak. Purple in color, the nose gives up aromas of pencil lead, scorched earth, lavender, espresso, blackberry, and black currant. Full-bodied and already complex on the palate, this plush, savory offering will evolve for 2-3 years and be at its best from 2012 to 2020. Bodegas Tagonius’s new collection is first-class. Importer: Well Oiled Wine Company, Leesburg, VA; www.welloiledwineco.com

The 2004 Crianza is 35% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tempranillo, and 15% Merlot aged for 9 months in new French and American oak. Deep crimson-colored, it reveals an enticing array of wood smoke, tobacco, damp earth, truffle, blueberry, and blackberry. Ripe and sweet on the palate, this full-bodied effort delivers superior depth, concentration, and length. It will evolve for 3-5 years and drink well through 2025. Importer: Mark Clinard, Well Oiled Wine Company, Leesburg, VA; tel. (703) 771-6300

As for the 2003 Crianza, made from a blend of 45% Tempranillo, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Syrah aged for 9 months in a mixture of new French and American oak, it exhibits aromas of cedar, earth, black currant, and blueberry. This is followed by a medium-bodied wine with layers of black fruits, ripe tannin, and a pure finish. This fine effort can be enjoyed now and over the next 6-8 years. Importer: The Country Vintner, Oilville, VA; tel. (571) 437-4620

A rough and tumble blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It starts out with forceful, cheesy oak that gives way to dark plum, bramble and oak-resin flavors, while the finish shows tannin and tomato leaf flavors. It’s full, tough and different from all the polished, international wines that dominate the marketplace.——M.S.(10/1/2008)—— 85