The 2006 Cote Rotie displays the vintage’s high acidity in an elegant, fragrant style that is somewhat disappointing on the back end as there is not enough concentration to flesh out the wine. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE

Dense and rich, the 2005 Cote Rotie offers licorice, cassis, tapenade, and earth in a medium-bodied, finesse style. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE

The 2004 Cote Rotie reveals complex notes of cedar, roasted herbs, black cherries, and hints of lard as well as spice. It is ideal for drinking over the next 3-4 years. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE

The 1998 Cote Rotie includes 1-2% Viognier in the blend. While it reveals the vintage's dry tannin and austerity, there is no doubting its bacon fat, honeysuckle, and black currant-scented nose. As the wine sat in the glass, floral, raspberry, and peppery notes emerged. Cellar this 1998 for another year or two and drink it over the following 12-15. This firm continues to evolve, with major investments in the cellar taking place. Readers should not assume that Vidal-Fleury represents the second label of its famous proprietor, Marcel Guigal. This house has a separate identity, and has been admirably managed by Jean-Pierre Rochias since Guigal acquired it in the mid-eighties. The release of Vidal-Fleury's wines is somewhat unusual, with some of the red wine cuvees held back for a number of years (i.e., the 1996 Cornas). Nevertheless, this is an undeniable source for top-notch values, particularly their southern Rhone reds from Cotes du Ventoux, Cotes du Rhone-Villages, Vacqueyras, and Cotes du Rhone.Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE

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