The 2019 Reserve Hawke's Bay Chardonnay is another stud in the Villa Maria Chardonnay stable. While not quite up to the level of the flagship Keltern bottling, it still offers lots to like, from the complex nose of struck match, toasted grain and grilled citrus to the generous, medium to full-bodied palate and long, silky-textured finish. It should drink well for at least 5-6 years.

Roasted cashews and grilled peaches merge into savory harmony in the 2016 Reserve Hawke's Bay Chardonnay. My pick of the three Reserve Chardonnays I tasted for this report, it's medium to full-bodied yet shows no sense of heaviness or alcohol, remaining fresh and focused from bold start to lingering, citrus-laden finish.