The 2014 Cecubo is a blend of Primitivo, Aglianico, Piedirosso and other indigenous grapes. The wine philosophy shows a two-millennia history that goes back to the time of the ancient Romans. From a cool vintage, this enriched red blend offers plenty of dark fruit and black cherry with elegant notes of green herb and grilled rosemary. The 2014 vintage was cool and humid and is known for slightly thorny and nervous wines. You definitely pick up on those characteristics. This 16,000-bottle release saw a year in Allier barriques and more time in bottle. It should flesh out with yet a few more years of bottle aging.

A blend of Primitivo and Piedirosso, the 2013 Cecubo is a dark and plummy red wine with thick textural richness, firm structure and a full-bodied approach. This wine possesses power and luscious fruit layers that drive it over the palate.

The 2010 Cecubo is a blend of Primitivo and Piedirosso from the volcanic soils of Roccamonfina. Starting with the 2012 vintage, this will be a zero-emissions "natural" wine and I await to see what if any changes will be made in the winemaking. This edition of Cecubo shows the strength of the vintage with dark fruit nuances of dried blackberry and cherry that are followed by oak-driven tones of ash, cinnamon and Spanish cedar. Pretty volcanic tones appear on the finish. This wine should have no problem holding ten years or more.

The 2007 Cecubo is drop-dead gorgeous. An extraordinary, expressive bouquet leads to smoke, tar, game and incense nuances as the wine emerges from the glass. There is a slightly wild quality in the Cecubo that is highly appealing. Deceptively medium in body, the 2007 turns increasingly elegant over time, capturing a striking interplay of elegance and power. The wine’s inner perfume and silkiness are rare for wines of the south, especially in this price range. This is a stunning wine and an absolute steal from Villa Matilde. Cecubo is an unusual blend of 45% Abbuoto, 35% Primitivo and 20% Piedirosso. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2022. Villa Matilde excels with a wide range of wines. The house style favors textural richness and depth. At times, varietal expression can take a bit of a back seat, but the wines more than compensate for that with their extraordinary personalitites. In particular, I found a number of the reds to be simply dazzling this year. Many of these wines are also great values. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2006 Cecubo is a big, dark wine that needs quite a bit of time in the glass for the tannins to soften. Dark cherries, spices, smoke, licorice and tar gradually come together in this powerful, brooding Campanian red. The Cecubo is 45% Abbuoto, 35% Primitivo and 20% Piedirosso that spent 12 months in Allier oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Villa Matilde is an excellent source for wines that ooze with character. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900