Silky, refined tannins frame a graceful core of fruit as the 2007 Aglianico shows off its class. There is gorgeous purity to the wine, along with subtle overtones of tar, earthiness and smoke that develop in the glass. Today, the Aglianico is mostly about an expression of fruit, but it should develop quite nicely in bottle over the coming years. A final blast of raspberries and cracked black pepper punctuate the refined finish. Villa Matilde's Aglianico is made from the Rocca dei Leoni property. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. Villa Matilde is an excellent source for both whites and reds that deliver tons of varietal and regional character. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

A modern-style effort, the entry-level bottling from Villa Matilde blends a hefty dose of toffee, toast and coffee flavors from oak with blackberry fruit tinged with green, herbal notes. Ultimately, it’s a decent, simple quaff.——C.S.(5/1/2002)—— 84