Readers looking for a gorgeously fruity, personality-filled, beautifully-textured, exotic dry white should check out the 2004 Ovacion, a blend of 60% Verdejo and 40% Viura. Its lovely perfume of orange marmalade, lemon butter, and other tropical fruits is accompanied by an elegant, delicious, nicely textured effort with a dry finish. It will offer considerable flexibility with an assortment of culinary dishes over the next 1-2 years. Importer: David Shiverick, Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800