The 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Domaine Gagey) is showing beautifully, unfurling in the glass with an inviting bouquet of sweet red berries, raw cocoa and dried orange rind that's already superbly integrated, albeit still a little shy after its recent bottling. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and supple, with a fleshy core of succulent fruit framed by exquisitely refined tannins. While this is more than charming enough to be approachable young, with a decade or more of bottle age, it will really punch above its weight.