Nearly half of the 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Smaragd originates in the terraced Steinertal, a proportion made possible by having once again bottled a separate Federspiel (which I did not taste) solely for a single German merchant. This Smaragd smells pungently of peppermint, sage, blackcurrant and lime zest. Glossy and juicy on the palate, this exudes ripe, lime-drenched honeydew melon, underlain by smoked meat and mineral suggestions. Long and luscious with a faint Szechuan pepper spiciness typical for Steinertal Riesling as well, it exhibits admirable purity and lightness on its feet that belie its Smaragd richness. This exceptional success confirms the wisdom of Lucas Pichler in having lobbied for the continuation of the estate’s “experiments” with Sauvignon Blanc.Encouraged by the healthy ripeness of the crop, Lucas and F. X. Pichler let a significant percentage of their wines ferment spontaneously this year. They managed to turn out a trio of wines with true Federspiel character that combine ripe flavors with interplay and elegance at 12.5% alcohol. What’s more, they were able to harvest these in the first week of October, a tribute to the outstanding vine selections and impeccable vineyard work that characterize this estate.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800

The vines, rare in the Wachau, were planted because the family liked to drink Sauvignon Blanc, a simple explanation for a wine that is fresh, green and balanced between herbaceousness and tropical fruit flavors.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 87