The Gambal 2006 Puligny-Montrachet offers an unusually bright and bracing take on its vintage and appellation, with fresh lime and white peach supported by a sorbet-like sense of sweetness and primary fruit juiciness. Hints of honey and spice add interest and reflect the presence of a modest percentage of botrytized fruit in this picking, but do not detract from the clarity and sheer refreshment of the finish. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. American Alex Gambal (about whom more can be found in issue 171) is gradually expanding his negociant activities while managing to purchase some excellent acreage as well. His 2006 collection in white at times reveals in high alcohol and heat the dangers of this vintage’s precipitant ripeness, but strikingly low pH by vintage standards helps in many cases to keep the wines lively and bright. Various importers