The 2005 MEANDRO DO VALE MEAO is a blend of Tinta Roriz (40%), Touriga Nacional (25%), Touriga Franca (25%), Tinta Barroca (5%) and Tinta Amarela (5%). It is the second wine of this estate, and not surprisingly, given that its big brother may be the wine of the vintage, it is quite successful in this vintage. Bright, elegant and refreshing, it also has plenty of power, a tannic grip on the end that supports the attractive fruit. Its structure, intensity and balance make it one of the finest buys in this report. It took a good while to get open fruit, but when it opens it is very attractive. It will ultimately seem graceful with an elegant mid-palate, but its intensity rules the day at the moment. I liked it better than its ’04 counterpart. It is simply a terrific Meandro. Drink 2009-2018. Francisco Olazabal, the owner of this fine winery, was the President of Ferreira, the winery that created Portugal’s seminal, dry cult wine, Barca Velha. The original Barca Velha vineyard is part of Vale Meao now, and you can still see the sign as you drive by. The winemaker is Francisco, Jr., who also makes wine at Quinta do Vallado. His record of excellence at these two fine estates certainly demonstrates that he is one of the Douro’s best and most important winemakers.Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, N.Y.; tel: (914) 251-3209.

The second wine from the famous Vale Meao quinta, Meandro’s name is a play on the bends of the river Douro, which surrounds the property. It’s a finely perfumed wine, layered with dark tannins, with licorice and black plum flavors, topped by some smoky wood. ——R.V.(7/1/2008)—— 90