It had been some time since I last tasted René Lafon's fabulous 1980 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or, and it has lost nothing with the passing of the years. Offering up inviting aromas of pear, apricot, drawn butter, toasted almonds, smoke, iodine and clear honey, it's medium to full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with lively acids and chalky grip underpinning its generous core of fruit. Seamless and complete, this beautiful bottle exemplifies Burgundy's capacity to surprise, no matter what the vintage conditions are on paper.