The 1996 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Villa Diana exhibits a light ruby color, a straightforward, strawberry and cherry-scented nose of light to moderate intensity, elegant, clean, fresh flavors, and a short, compact finish. It requires consumption over the next 12 months. As I have pointed out for a number of years, top-class bargains can be found in Abruzzi, a region situated in the southern Italy, along the Adriatic coast. The wines produced are named after the grape of the same name - Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Cantina Tollo's wines are pleasant, well-made, clean offerings that represent bargains given today's super-high wine prices. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620