The stunningly complex 1998 Barbera d'Asti Pomorosso (2,500 cases) was aged in French barrels, of which 80% were new, and also bottled unfiltered. This full-bodied, thick, awesomely concentrated Barbera boasts abundant quantities of black fruit, licorice, tomato skin, and spice box scents. Powerful, rich, and concentrated, it has completely soaked up its exposure to new oak, something the better Barberas seem to do with surprising ease. Drink it over the next 5-7 years.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620