Mastroberardino’s 2009 Lacryma Chirsti del Vesuvio Rosso is a big, beefy wine packed with dark cherries, tar, licorice, leather, spices and game, all typical of the Piedirosso grape. This rustic full-bodied red is not for the faint of heart but it will pair beautifully with similarly hearty fare. That said, I am pleasantly surprised to see this turn more delicate in the glass over time, with pretty scents of mint, flowers and dried herbs that add complexity and elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Mastroberardino is one of the historically significant names in Italian wine. These entry-level selections offer plenty of insight into the unique qualities of Campania’s myriad indigenous red and white grape varieties. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620