Altare’s 2004 Barolo is a sweet, dense wine loaded with considerable fruit that hides the tannic structure that lurks underneath. Licorice, menthol, baking spices and dark red fruit all make an appearance in this superbly well-proportioned Barolo. Sweet, ripe tannins, and a lingering note of mint give this wine a beautiful sense of lift on the finish. Altare’s Barolo was once quite representative of La Morra, but the recent addition of vineyards in Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga in the blend make this a very different – dare I say it – almost traditional expression of Barolo. It is a lovely wine and is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. With his characteristic modesty Elio Altare told me 2005 was not a great vintage for him. “The harvest had to be timed perfectly, if we had waited just a few more hours the fruit would have been over-ripe,” says Altare. “2004, on the other hand was perfect. We were able to do several passes in the vineyards, picking each bunch at the optimal level of ripeness. In the cellar we did an absolute minimum of racking. The wines literally made themselves.” A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Very intense aromas of ripe fruit and fresh-cut flowers. Turns to nectarine. Full-bodied, with very polished yet abundant tannins. Long and caressing. Balanced and pretty. Best after 2011. 1,415 cases made, 360 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Rose perfume/Turkish Delight nose but the fruit is a little stewed. Fine and dense and pretty oak. Tannins are smooth but deep. Barrique influence evident. Needs a good wait. Very firm.