If Portugal’s third fortified wine (after Port and Madeira) can taste like this, it should be better known. Dark gold color, the wine has burnt, Maderized aromas. This is a wonderful old wine, with the youngest wine in the blend being 18 years old. Tastes of burnt old wood and old gold fruits complete a sensous experience. Sensibly, the wine also comes in half bottles. —R.V.——R.V.(12/31/2002)—— 93

A classic fortified wine from just south of Lisbon, this Moscatel de Setubal is a beautifully smooth, nutty wine, with acidity and freshness along with sweetness. Surprisingly light, despite its 18% alcohol, its closest parallel is Madeira rather than Port. Imported by Commonwealth Wine & Spirits Inc. ——R.V.(11/15/2005)—— 92