Since 2001, Moosbrugger has been handling one lot of Gruner Veltliner as though the monks of Gobelsburg were working it 50 – or for that matter 550 – years ago: crushing and extended skin contact, no clarification, “wild” fermentation, and a full year in large ovals. The latest rendition to be released, from the freakishly hot 2003 vintage, is grainy in texture and somewhat bitter and abrupt in finish, but the upcoming 2004 Gruner Veltliner Tradition, which I tasted from cask, is a clear success. Subtle elements of herb, nut oils and citrus waft from the glass along with illusive notes that would seem to come from the (large, older) cask itself. Nuts and honey with refreshing notes of lemon, cress and peppery pungency mark this medium to full-bodied wine’s intensely juicy, fruit-filled, faintly grainy-textured presentation on the palate. In the finish, it really soars, carrying high toned notes of citrus and distilled pit fruit, subtly sweet, low-toned nuttiness, peppery pungency and a tactile sense of suspended mineral dust. The only question mark emerging from the cask here is how the wine will handle its relatively elevated volatility and its slight sense of finishing warmth. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300