The 2006 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico (Nero d’Avola, Frappatto) is delicate and ethereal in its expression of dried flowers, dried cherries, spices and herbs. The wine might show better balance if it weren’t for the slightly green notes that lurk in the background. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. These are two pretty wines from COS, one of the early leaders of high quality winemaking in Sicily.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

This “classico” interpretation of Nero d’Avola and Frappato from COS is every bit as enjoyable as the producer’s top-shelf Pithos expression. You’ll get pretty spice tones backed by elegant fruit and almond. Pair it with light meat dishes and serve it a few degrees cooler than you normally would a red wine.——M.L.(5/1/2010)—— 90