Lafon's parcel of Meursault Charmes is located just below the Meursault Perrieres vineyard on the Puligny-Montrachet border. The 1998 exhibits mouth-watering almond, hazelnut, and white flower scents. Medium-bodied, silky-textured, and possessing superb refinement and focus, this is a mineral, pear, and apple-flavored wine. Its character is harmoniously sustained from the attack through the mid-palate. Moreover, the finish is long, focused, and flavorful. There are no hard edges or angles in this complete 1998. Anticipated maturity: now-2008. Importer: Ex Cellars, Boston, MA; tel (617) 876-5105.