This wine is deceptive. At first smell and taste, it doesn’t show much—its spice and green-fruit aromas are not at all obvious. It’s when you roll it around your mouth, that all the layers of flavor emerge. It is powerful, rounded, but with a fine line of minerality that holds the whole wine on a knife edge. The wood is beautifully judged, the fruit just beginning to develop secondary aromas. Hold for several years. ——R.V.(12/1/2006)—— 95