Wild sage, myrtle, charred meat, white mushroom, dried figs and ash are elements of a surprisingly complex nose from this Sardinian classic. The tannins are tame and a medium finish tops medium body. Cantina Santadi is a cooperative with some 300 members who have worked together to raise the level of the island’s wines thanks to a focus on native grapes such as Carignano. ——M.L.(11/15/2005)—— 86