Einaudi’s medium-bodied 2005 Dolcetto di Dogliani is a deeply-colored, delicious wine bursting with violets, tar, licorice and blueberries. It offers a layered personality and a long, clean finish. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2009. Einaudi has produced an especially strong set of Barolos in 2003. Proprietor Matteo Sardagna told me he wasn’t convinced about the quality of the vintage at the outset so he decided to use lower percentage of new oak than normal. That turns out to have been a very wise decision, as these wines offer superb richness as well as detail, the latter of which was particularly hard to come by in 2003. Readers should also consider the estate’s Dolcettos, which are among the most unique wines being made in the region. The Vigna Tecc is particularly noteworthy, and is now labeled under the new Dogliani designation. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900