Flowers, spices, rocks, clove, and licorice explode from the glass of the 2002 Latricieres-Chambertin. Medium to full-bodied, masculine, and muscular, this wine coats the taster’s palate with cassis liqueur, blackberries, and perfume. It is intensely concentrated and powerful, yet remains lively and detailed. Projected maturity: 2008-2019. Note: This estate’s 2002s are not yet released. The above estimate is based on the prices of the 2001s, taking into account that the dollar has significantly dropped.Importers include: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100

The 2002 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is a very fine contribution to the vintage courtesy of Lalou Bize-Leroy. It has a tensile bouquet with edgy black cherry, dark chocolate and undergrowth notes, holding something back at first but then getting into its stride with a few minutes in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly brittle tannin (something that I occasionally find in this grand cru.) Yes, it is a touch foursquare, "correct" compared the more sensual 2002 Vosne Beaux Monts, but the energy and focus win you over. Drink now, but don't be afraid to cellar this for another 15 to 20 years. Tasted January 2016.